UPDATED: I took pictures while I did this again, so now it's all graphical and stuff. . A 2 post lift makes this job really simple, I have a MAXJAX I bought through Home Depot for about $3,500.00 (I financed it) there are cheaper places to get it if you have deep pockets. My garage is 11' high and I converted the door to a high-lift. My setup is pretty much ideal, just wish I had more space overall. My TB is a mix of 2007/2008 so I know it applies to all models for those 2 years, older models may have some differences, particularly for the e-brake cables. Leave the transmission in neutral and block the wheels (your key will be stuck in the ignition, but you're removing the battery, so who cares)
You must discharge the A/C, please be responsible and have it recovered at a shop, if you can...
First thing I do is start with what I consider the incidentals. Remove all the nose pieces, Grill, Headlights, Bumper cover, and the plastic mounting cage that holds the nose together.
Then I prefer lift the rear, remove both back wheels,remove the 1 bolt that hold the e-brake cable to the frame on each side, loosely stick the bolt back into its mount so you don't lose it. Disconnect the e-brake cables from each caliper, remove one of the pop-clips that hold the fender well plastic guard in place and use a tie-wrap through that hole to strap the e-brake cable to the body, don't lose the clip, it will be reinstalled later. remove the back bumper, Put the back wheels back on with just a few lug nuts.
You will notice in my pictures, I have springs in the rear (so much better than the bags) but if you have bags, you'll have a harness and an air hose on the passenger side you'll have to disconnect. I do not remember how it comes off, so figure it out. :)
Next is the gas cap, remove the door by removing the 2 bolts on the body, remove the gas cap and pull out the rubber accordion thingy, this will expose 2 10mm nuts, loosen them and knock the gas cap to the left so it's loose (you need to keep an eye on this while you are lifting & replacing the body, it tends to snag on things)
ift up the whole truck, crawl under and disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission, it's held in with a little clip you pull out, then push the fitting out of the mount, the ball just pops off the shift bar. It's not rocket science. Crawl out, time for the engine.
Starting on the Passenger side of the engine bay, discharge the A/C system, remove the air filter assembly, Windshield washer tank, Coolant reservoir, disconnect coolant lines and A/C lines from the engine and strap out of the way. Unbolt the A/C line going to the condenser (the big radiator in the front) and strap it back towards the body. Should look a lot like the picture below.
Now, on the driver side, Pull the battery, unbolt the body ground lug next to the battery, unbolt the brake booster, rest it against the engine, open the fuse box, loosen the 4 visible 7 or 8mm (can't remember) bolts on top and whack them lightly with the rachet, that will loosen the plugs underneath, lift off the box, disconnect the remaining cables at the back, disconnect the other 2 large interconnects near the fuse box, you should now be able to separate the harnesses and fold the frame harness & fuse box onto the engine, (depending on how you disconnect the fuse box, it could end up either on the engine or on the body) tie-wrap in place (make sure you didn't miss anything) Oh, and don't forget this little body clip on both sides of the front end (right picture)
Take off the driver front wheel, tape the little rubber door up out of the way, push the boot up on the steering linkage to expose the interconnect, STRAP THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT WITH A BUNGEE TO THE SHIFTER! (Or a rope, whatever) IT MUST NOT BE ALLOWED TO SPIN!!!! YOU WILL BREAK THE CLOCK SPRING AND MISALIGN THE STEERING POSITION SENSOR!! (I did not know this, caused me several hours of troubleshooting to fix later) Remove the bolt and lightly pry the linkage apart to disengage. Put the front wheel back on.. That should be it for the engine bay.
Now, using your impact gun, remove all 12 bolts from the frame that attach to the body, they are all identical EXCEPT the 2 at the front. Time to separate: Orient the arms of your lift to be on the outside edge of the body, keep in mind, most of the weight is slightly rearward, lift it slowly, watch for anything binding or hanging, pay close attention to the fuel filler neck, it will need to be moved several times (if you had a buddy to help now, that's where he should be standing) once you see all is clear, lift up enough to clear the top of the engine and roll the chassis out of the way. I usually drop the body onto some rolling pallets (mover's rolling flats) and roll it into the driveway while I work on the motor/trans/whatever.
First time I did it, it took 5 hours, second time took 3. It gets easier.
Putting it back on is a bit nerve racking, drop it slow, you will likely need a floor jack to lift the front or back to move it sideways until you can get it to drop onto the mounts, then I use a crowbar to side it a little to whatever side so all the bolts will finger-tighten into place without resistance, they should go in very easy, if you have to force it, you have not gotten the body aligned yet. Reassemble is simply the reverse of the above.